It is always a good idea to distract the puppy when he is finding mischief. Call the puppy to you so that he forgets what he is getting into. This is the main part of preventing a puppy’s bad behaviors, although you can’t be there 24 hours a day to watch him.
A puppy experiences some pain while it grows because its teeth are erupting, the sexual organs are distracted, the personality is flourishing and the need to test the limits of its owner and the limits of its territory become central. Keep these things in mind while guiding your puppy through its constantly changing world. The puppy usually experiences 3 periods of fear, when he needs to test his master. They occur at different ages depending on the breed and the dog, It is enough to keep in mind that these will test are normal. The puppy’s teeth annoying to him; they erupt around 16 weeks and again around 8 months. Teething and chewing problems can be annoying for you, but they are obvious to puppies. Male puppies become especially territorial and protective, usually around 3 months of age. They become aggressive, feisty and barky. The male puppy will reach sexual maturity around 4 months; The female puppy a litter later, depending on the breed, from 7 to 12 months.
All these statistics and generalizations of puppies have an effect on the trainability and the ability to concentrate and explain some of the sources of bad behaviors that you need to prevent them.
1. Crying During The Night
Young puppies can act as babies in more ways than one. Crying at night is an excellent example of this. Fortunately, puppies generally overcome this stage faster than their human counterparts. We keep in mind that the puppy is insecure and is not used to spending the night alone. His mother and his siblings are no longer around for warmth and comfort. Now he is alone in a dog crate, which we know simulates a den experience for him. But he may not be grasping that concept on the first night.
You should never scold a puppy for crying during the night and you should not consider punishment. The punishment reinforces the fear of a puppy and diminishes his confidence in you. In this vital moment, you are trying to convince the puppy that you are the best option since beef jerky, you need him to trust you. Comfort the puppy with sweet words, using his name and perhaps a single dog treat. Scratch his head through the crate. Turn on the radio, the sweet sounds and mellow human voices will ease his discomfort. These difficult nights do not typically persist. Be gentle and kind, understanding that everything is new and existing for the puppy, and also scary. If the crying continues for more than a week to ten days, you should have the puppy reexamined by the veterinarian to see if there are possible health issues.
2. Nipping
Young puppies are very oral. As with all mammals, life begins with suction. Once the teeth begin to erupt, the puppy needs to feel them, taste them and sharpen them. Your job as a master is to make it clear to the puppy immediately that the bones in your hands and arms are not made of nylon! Gnawing human bones are not acceptable, even if it tastes better than nylon or polyurethane.
The command ”NO” will do wonders with the puppy. When you’re playing with the puppy and he starts mouthing you, say, “NO”, or make a crying sound as another dog would. Don’t grab his mouth and hold it shut. This drives the puppy crazy and he will forget where he is and what he was doing, and will only focus on escaping your grasp on his most important part of all body parts. We must be serious when we correct that the puppy from nipping. Remember that those small sharp milky teeth, which simply pinch now, will eventually erupt into strong canines and incisors developed by God to rip meat from the bones. Regardless of your puppy’s breed, any dog’s teeth can damage to an adult, no less a child who is the puppy’s playmate. As soon as the puppy releases its grip, give him an appropriate chewable toy and praise him for playing with it.
The crate is a sensible mode of correction for nipping. The puppy will quickly understand that if he does not play according to your rules, he is playing alone. Putting the puppy in its crate will make the puppy feel duly ignored. Always remember that puppies hate being ignored, just like children.
3. Chewing
Like nipping, chewing is related to the puppy’s need to exercise his developing teeth, to massage his gums and to work on his jaw. Chewing is vital for all dogs. It does not need to be eliminated, simply redirected.
You can correct the dog when he is chewing the linoleum or the floorboards with a stern, “NO” and then say “OK” and give him a bone. It is not recommended to toss him a sneaker or an old boot since he will not be able to differentiate between the old pair and the new once. Many trainers recommend spraying such objects with sprays such as ‘bitter apple’ or alcohol to make them undesirable. Do not overdo these sprays, as they can be harmful if swallowed in large amounts. Take him to the undesirable objects and let him taste it. He should react negatively. Some dogs may not react to this at all. Another possibility is to scold the object that the puppy is chewing, say “NO” and smack the floorboard or shoe. Make sure the neighbors are not watching!
For animal safety, be sure to remove any harmful wires, objects, etc, from the puppy’s area. Puppy-proofing has a lot to do with what the puppy can and will put in his mouth. Remember that puppies are curious and, above all, oral.
4. Barking
Imagine for a moment that the dogs did not bark. Instead, they spoke in our language. Surely some of the communication difficulties would be eliminated before, but consider the endless and ubiquitous list of wishes and groans that we would have to live with. Dogs are naturally greedy animals, sharing is not part of the canine mentality. The crates would not be too blissful if we had to listen to our puppy’s endless complaining from within. We wish they were just whining. Puppies to be seen and not heard.
Barking, like chewing, is perfectly normal. As dogs do not speak and we can be grateful for that little miracle, they bark and whine to communicate. Our first consideration in solving barking problems is to determine which barking is problematic. We are mainly concerned with excessive barking, barking in the air, a moth, a mother-in-law or some other inevitable presence.
If you breed a guard dog or a viable watchdog, barking can be a blessing, as it may indicate an invasion of your property. Therefore, barking is part of the reason why owning such a dog. Granted, a Chihuahua or Lhasa apso barking fiercely at the mailman is not the same thing. Dogs also bark to show dominance, as they would have done in the wild within their pack order. Barking at people, in general, is undesirable and perhaps a precursor to biting.
Over the years, training manuals and online portals have forced into print/publish some of the most incredible methods to curb barking. We are not saying that some of those methods did not work on any dog somewhere, but their general acceptance is dubious at best. If your dog will react with a bucket of water mysteriously thrown on it when it barks outdoors, it cannot be predicted. I can’t tell you if he will quickly quiet when a flying sheet or a scarecrow topples over your picket fence.
Training begins at home, that is, indoors. If the puppy barks unnecessarily, use the shaker can. He can associate barking with this undesirable sound and bark less. Teach him to speak on command. This can give him an outlet to exercise his beautiful voice.
In case you need to stop his barking, tell him that he is done well as you quiet him. Perhaps he is alerted you to a person at the entrance door or a raccoon in the garbage can, or it may be the usual 9 o’clock catfight or its own shadow on the window pane. Thank him and say goodbye. don’t make the outburst an event.
Never leave a puppy outdoors during the day. This is not only insecure, but it can help develop the habitual barker. Never encourage the puppy to speak for dinner or go out.
Never leave a puppy outdoors during the day. This is not only insecure, but it can help develop the usual barker. Never encourage the puppy to talk for dinner or go out.
Keep in mind that certain breeds and types of dogs have been trained to use their voice at work. Therefore, if you have a Basset Hound, Beagle, Coonhound or another Scenthound breed that has been raised to ‘give voice’ on a path or in a pack, your commitment to the barking problem needs to be more devout. Did you know that the Finnish spitz is appreciated for his voice in his native Finland and in his homeland is judged on the basis of the bark in the ring? Mastiff breeds such as Chow Chow and Shibu Inu, with strong protective instincts, will also be more vocal than other breeds that give a more discriminatory voice. Of course, the Basenji doesn’t bark at all, but he does yodel, which is a little better than singing.
5. Jumping Up
Teaching the puppy not to jump is simple if you are consistent. It should start when the puppy is young, even if hello greetings are adorable and harmless. A 75-pound adult dog that jumps on you when your arms are full of groceries is not adorable. Start when the puppy is young. say “OFF” when he jumps up and until he stops ignore him completely by not touching, looking at him or talking to him. When he has calmed down and is not jumping, ask him to “SIT.” Praise while he is on the floor. He will learn that he can only greet you from all fours or while sitting. Lean down and give him a hug and a kiss. (The owners of small breeds do not have as much concern with this as the owners of large breeds, for obvious reasons.)
6. Begging
Begging is annoying, so, at the risk of being politically incorrect, don’t give in to a bigger. Needy puppies are not attractive. A begging puppy can be irresistible. Avoid begging the puppy by never feeding him on the dining table. This does not mean that a hand treat is bad, nor is it that the table scraps are bad. Good leftovers or scraps from the table are good. Feed the puppy after your dinner. Occasionally add table scraps to his food. Dogs are omnivorous, not carnivorous. They eat meat and vegetables, and scraps from the table can encourage an ordinary dinner. You should not do this every night or the puppy will become fussy. Do not feed the puppy before dinner. If you feed the puppy first, he may not be interested in his food, knowing that your best smelling food will follow soon. If you are already guilty of feeding the puppy at the table, stop immediately. If he continues to beg, you can remove him from the dining area.
7. Jumping On Furniture
Prevention is the easiest cure. Do not allow your puppy to jump on the furniture. Keep it away from furniture, get rid of all your sofas and chairs so that the puppy can have free rein from the room without jumping the furniture.
As these options are not too viable, we will have to develop an action plan to prevent the puppy from jumping. be consistent. Don’t let the puppy sit on the couch in the evening and then scold him during the day for the same behavior. Ideally, your pups like you and want to be close to you. Some breeds are more curled up than others. Some puppies may need to snuggle at your feet on the couch and other puppies just want to be sitting in front of you.
This bad behavior can be prevented by allowing the puppy to enter your living area wearing his leash. Take it out of the furniture with his leash and say “off”. In the second offense, place a down-stay or sit-stay. Praise him for doing what you want.
You just can’t trust the puppy to take over the house before he is fully housetrained. Therefore, there is no real way to keep it away from the furniture. He is not happy that you are not at home. Living room furniture smells like you, as does your bed, slippers, and hairbrush. He wants to be close to you, so when you’re not home, he will surely be sitting on your furniture, taking a nap in your bed or snacking on your slippers.
8. Running Wild
A puppy that enters the main living room of the house can sometimes tear about the house widely. This is reckless and dangerous, generally known as ”crazies”. Crazies can be prevented to some extent. If your puppy has been in a crate for a long time, let him run outdoors or take him for a quick walk on his leash. The ‘crazies’ happen because the dog’s energy tank is in ”Full” and he needs to burn some of his puppy’s petrol. It is better to introduce the puppy to other areas of the house after he has been exercised and relieved. Another bad side of the crazies is that, after a vigorous run, the excitement and being confined for a while, the puppy will need relief immediately. Never let him run in the house without supervision. A puppy that is not fully trained must be confined in a room or in his crate for his own safety and not given the entire house to ransack.
9. Aggression
A macho puppy probably has no problems with aggression. The shy or fearful puppy that growls or even bites does not have a problem of aggression. The spoiled dog or the dog trained by the lenient trainer, or the teacher who has not read a single training manual and lets the puppy get away with hell and high-water does not have an aggression problem.
Puppies grow from these bad behavior. However, the puppy that growls at you or your children while eating, walking, petting or brushing does not have an aggression problem.
This puppy needs to be reminded that he is not the leader in the home. You need to scold him with confidence every time he growls. He will misunderstand your loving tones to say, “You like that big bark, don’t you?”, a growling puppy may get worse as it grows.
Any dog, whether purebred, a smaller and toy dog or innocent crossbreed, can be genetically programmed to be aggressive. You cannot predict this predisposition. Although it is helpful to have visited your puppy’s parents to observe their disposition. Some dogs are too sensitive, vulnerable, insecure or scared and compensate by becoming aggressive.
These incurable alpha types will mark around your home, they will sleep where they want, they will jump when they hear a can opener, they will not allow you to approach them while they eat and bully your children.
In the training process, you should not tolerate any aggressive signs. Just praise the dog when he is doing the right thing, praise and condolence should not be substituted. Praise is important, as is a correction. Do not get so caught up in predicting his next wrong move that you forget to praise at the appropriate times.
It is advisable not to use food rewards when training a dog that is naturally aggressive. Positive reinforcement will help keep your tank of a tyke in his proper place in the pack. Do not attempt to eat a sandwich while teaching your dog to “sit and stay” or he will lose his concentration and you will lose your tuna. When training an aggressive dog, be sure to be very practical. He should get used to the people who touch him, and this helps the nature of the bond between you and the dog.
10. Digging
The dogs dig because mama nature gave them the paws and the cause. Dogs dig to find food, find water, shade, shelter or last year’s rip bone. Why is your puppy digging? If it’s hot in an open yard, it can be for shade. Then he is telling you something or trying to calm himself down. If he is neither hot, thirst or unsheltered, he may be digging recreationally. The puppy is bored and digging is fun, especially on the soft ground around the tulips or under the porch where it has ”air conditioning.”
Many expert trainers recommend allowing the dog to dig only in one area. You bring the puppy there every time he is redesigning your landscape. Another option is to occupy the puppy every time he begins to dig. Not all digging problems can be covered op. Several methods have worked for some trainers, but there are no absolutes.
Terriers are notoriously talented diggers, although hounds and huskies can dig with the best.
11. Wetting
Not to be confused with a housetraining problem, the puppy gets wet when he is excited or threatened. Never scold the piddling offender! It is better to ignore the puppy after such an incident. You must learn to recognize the signs of fear and excitement in the puppy and try to calm him down. Some trainers try to teach these puppies to urinate on command so that you can make sure that the puppy’s bladder is empty before he greets you indoors. You can also offer a food treat so that the puppy knows that he is good and not afraid. Be patient, praise and reassure the puppy and soon the problem will be eliminated itself.
You may also want to check with your veterinarian to see if there is a physical problem that can be treated.