Keeping Russian Tortoises As Pets: Everything You Need To Know

A famous pet tortoise, Russian tortoises are one of the most accessible tortoise species. They are small, making them simple for a large number of people with restricted space to keep.

They are also fighters, eager to eat and more dynamic than some different tortoises. At the time they are allowed to reach the tunnel, Russian tortoises also have perhaps the most surprising resilience for temperature limits.

They are one of the few categories of animals that can be kept outside in Las Vegas, Nevada, throughout the year. These components make Russian tortoises attractive to new tortoise breeders and a fun turtle for prepared veterans.

Russian tortoise, also called the Horsefield tortoise, the Afghan tortoise, the Asian focal, the steppe or the four-toed tortoise, these creatures are found in harsh deserts in Russia, Iran, Pakistan,
and Afghanistan, regularly at extremely high rises.

They live in huge underground tunnels, where they sleep for a long time during times of limits in temperature.

These tortoises are generally caught in the wild and brought to the U.S. for residential pet exchange. They are also bred in small quantities in the U.S. also may be available to buy in pet stores. You could also find some to receive from salvage associations in the U.S.

Size Of A Russian Tortoise

Russian tortoise hatchlings are about 1 inch in shell length. As they develop, they grow to the greatest length of 8 to 10 inches. Females are regularly somewhat larger than full-size males.

By the time the females are about 6 inches long, they are large enough to start creating eggs. Russian tortoises are often imported as young adults somewhere in the range of 4 and 5 crawls in the length of the shell.

These tortoises are large enough to cope with high-risk conditions during delivery but small enough to fit in a fixed-size transport box. Russian tortoises over 6 inches long can be difficult to spot.


Russian tortoises can live for more than 40 years. Raised on a lean, high-fiber diet, hostages raised in low-stress conditions have a higher future.


The preferred technique for raising Russian tortoises is a fenced-in area outdoors in a warmer environment.

Pens for a pair of adults should be 2 feet by 4 feet in any case. Fenced area dividers should be set to the ground crawls 6 to 12 to prevent tortoises from digging under the sides, and should be 12 inches or more above the ground.

Russian tortoises are burrowers. In general, they will delve into the corners and against the articles. Putting great shakes under the ground at the corners prevents tortoises from being discovered.

In higher or lower temperatures, they strive to go underground to protect themselves from limits.

Building Russian tortoises underground hides boxes that maintain increasingly stable temperatures that protect them from the tunnel excessively. Concealed lush territories that get regular water help keep the smallest turtles cool.

Russian tortoises will surely try to eat any open plants in their pens. They favor broad-leaved plants and weeds. They don’t really eat grass, except if they have no alternatives. Check all plants in the fenced area to ensure they are protected.

Russian tortoises housed indoors can be confined in huge plastic canisters, storage tanks, or small plastic pools. One or two adults can be kept in a walled area estimating in any case 5 square feet, with side walls of 8 inches or more. Much more space is improved.

Babies can carry out smaller accommodations. tortoises kept on small walls in areas to get anxious and spend an important part of the day trying to escape from corners.

Various substrates can be used. I incline towards a mixture of earth or sand mixed with vegetation of peat greenery or fine coconut coir. Using only sand makes moving to some degree difficult for tortoises. Their feet sink with each progression. Blending soils hardens the establishment.

Also, I prefer to incorporate a pair of huge, level smoothies into a fenced indoor area. They help to scrape the tortoises’ nails and give them a perfect surface to feed on.

Russian tortoises also appreciate climbing, so try to find a corner that gives them that opportunity.

Lighting And Temperature

Russian tortoises that live outside and are allowed to burrow tunnels are really equipped to deal with themselves when it comes to temperatures. I keep them out in Las Vegas year-round with no additional heat sources. Winter lows are during the 20 (degrees Fahrenheit), and summer highs are around 120 degrees.

Russian tortoises can deal with high temperatures only in the event that they can get underground where it is coldest. Keeping any turtle on an outdoor porch or anything on the ground when it’s over 100 degrees is unreasonably hot for them.

Russian tortoises are more dynamic when temperatures are somewhere in the range of 60 and 90 degrees, however, they stay dynamic during the coldest parts of the day in midsummer or rest underground in a tunnel.

Russian tortoises rest underground throughout the winter in case they have a chance to bury a tunnel before cold temperatures hit. In Las Vegas, my tortoises go to bed on different occasions during the fall and leave hibernation in mid-February.

Indoors, Russian tortoises can be kept at normal room temperatures: 68 to 80 degrees. They should also approach an area heated by the overhead light.

This place should be in the 90-100 degree range. Like most daytime herbivorous reptiles, they need a UVB light in their indoor nooks to help them properly process calcium for their weight control plans.

These tortoises can cope with night temperatures in the low 50 with no problems. Russian turtles don’t have to rest to stay healthy, so tortoises kept indoors and kept at stable temperatures will never skirt a beat as winter writhes underneath.

Keep the lights in 12 to 14 hours every day, and mood killer all light and heat warmth sources at night.

Feeding Russian Tortoise

Russian tortoises are herbivores (plant eaters). They want to eat and for the most part, lean towards verdant greens. In a perfect world, they should gobble up a diet rich in fiber, dull lettuce, and vegetables – for example, collards, kale, turnip, mustard, and dandelion – along with different vegetables, such as squash, corn, peppers, carrots, thorny pear desert plant, and sweet potatoes.

Also, they may have a limited amount of organic produce, for example, apples and berries. Russian tortoises should not be encouraged to supplement an inappropriate piece of lettuce, grain, or meat.

Russian tortoises are energetic eaters, and the destruction they unleash on plants in most fenced outdoor areas is confirmation of this. They lean toward broad-leaved weeds and eagerly eat virtually any verdant green or vegetable offered to them. We routinely use spring blends, which have a few verdant fixings in them.

We supplement with kale, caught greens, turnip greens and any of the darker types of lettuce. The assortment is the key, and due to their size, these tortoises really eat.

I plant a wide range of protected and green weed types in their fenced outdoor areas in the spring.

Dandelions are one of my favorite feeding points for all tortoises.

It may also be helpful to segment chunks of the walled area to allow plants to retrieve and rotate tortoise entry into different regions.

We also plant grasses, clovers, and other safe plants throughout the walled area. As long as they have full access to all accessible spaces, they will certainly eat the plants until nowhere in mid-summer.